Titbits from my Archives: The Prince of Wales' Railway Journeys in India, 1875-1876
"THE PRINCE OF WALES' TOUR OF INDIA -- A DIARY IN INDIA"
William Howard Russell
Honorary Private Secretary to His Royal Highness, The Prince Of Wales
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE
LONDON, 1877
(Note: Modern spellings of names have been provided in parentheses where different from the older spellings.)
ARRIVAL IN BOMBAY
The Prince Of Wales, ALBERT EDWARD, with a big retinue of officers and men sailing from London on 11th October, 1875, arrived Bombay by their royal ship, HMSS Serapis at 9am on 8th November. In the afternoon after a host of formalities, a cavalcade of horse-driven carriages from the dock took His Royal Highness and the party, escorted by the Viceroy and other high Indian officials, to the Government House about 6 or 7 miles away to Parell (Parel). Unfortunately the Princess could not make the journey.
8th - 12th November
The Prince attended to multifarious activities, social and official functions arranged in his honour in Bombay.
TO POONAH (Pune) AND BACK
13th November
At 5.30am, all the servants in the camp were turned out to send off the luggage to the Train, which was scheduled to leave for Kirkee at 7am but did not really leave until after an hour and half later! This Special Train started from a Station close to Parell, and was to carry the party actually to Poonah (Poona, Pune), some 119 miles away from Bombay. There was a guard of honour given to the Prince by the European volunteers at the station. This was the first occasion for the Prince to travel by rail in India and he was impressed by the remarkable 'bandobast' made by all the government departments to ensure that every thing was perfect. To each carriage in the train names of occupants were attached with appropriate labels. First station at which the train stopped out of Bombay was Tannah (Thana). The ascent to Bhore Ghat was very scenic and the Prince and his officials enjoyed every bit of this very interesting journey. They could feel the heat vanishing as they ascended the ghats.
There was not much to be seen from the train at Kirkee - a plain dry-looking row of bungalows, and the lines of trees by the roadside, a British battery firing a salute, a crowd of soldiers' wives and children, European and Eurasian outside the railings, and official and the guard on the platform, which was decorated with flowers and flags. In a few minutes more the thud of another salute was heard ahead and the train stopped. Many officers, civil and military, and a great gathering of the 'Station' greeted the Prince as he stepped out on the platform with much enthusiasm. Driving in state in horse carriages through the cantonment and outlying suburbs they reached Poonah at 5pm and there was a long drive to the Government House. There was a State dinner, and a dance, suggested by the Prince as an enlivening process.
14th November
After a number of official and social engagements in the town and visits to the famous Temple of Parbutee (Parvati), the Prince returned to Gunnesh Khind by the city and cantonments which were brilliantly illuminated.
15th November
After the farewell dinner at Gunnesh Khind, at midnight the Prince drove to the Special Train stabled at Kirkee where the servants had arranged luxurious beds in the carriages, and in half an hour more they were rattling away from the former capital of Peshwas, on their return trip to Bombay, sleeping as securely as they were at home.
16th November
There were few who were awake at sunrise and saw the wild scenery of the Ghauts (Ghats) gradually developed in the early morning, but those who were by chance so fortunate had reason to be grateful. The Train arrived at the Station, outside Parell at 7.30am. After another 'burra khana' at Parell, there was a grand ball, the last for the good people of Bombay and the Nawabs and Rajas who came had an opportunity of seeing how European ladies and gentlemen dance to amuse themselves instead of looking at others do it for them.
17th November
'Farewell the tented field! Today we pack up and clear out from the canvas. Those who are going to Baroda by train tomorrow are only to take what is necessary.' In the afternoon the Prince left for Parell. More than 400 presents, consisting of best specimens of Indian workmanship in gold, diamonds, silver and arms of all kinds from Bombay Rajas and Chiefs like the Raja of Kohlapoor (Kolhapur), the Gaekwar (Gaikwad) of Baroda, the Nizam, the Rao of Cutch (Kutch) were given to the Prince, and even for the Princess who had not come to India.
DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY TO BARODA
18th November
At about 8.30pm the Royal party landed at the Apollo Bunder. There were some hundreds of Indians, Europeans and Parsees at the landing place and a a few hundred more were collected along the route to the Railway. Outside and inside the Station there was large assemblage wherein the Parsees were conspicuous. The Railway to Baroda traverses the island on which Bombay is built and is carried by a series of bridges over the estuaries and rivers which mingle their water.
19th November
All the party were fast asleep in their snug beds in the Train when good General Sam Browne, like the blistering East wind, came round knocking at the windows of the carriages. 'Get up! Get up! We shall be in Baroda in minutes!' A great scrambling to get at clothing and uniforms ensued, and scarcely were all attired ere General Browne' words were verified. At 7.20am. the Train arrived, Gaekwar with Sir Madhav Rao at his side and groups of resplendent Sirdars (Sardars) behind him, Mr Melville, the Agent of the Governor General, and officers of the British Government, civil and military in full uniform, stood on the platform at Baroda which was beautifully decorated with green wreaths and festoons, and decked in flags and flowers to welcome the Prince. Outside there were triumphal arches and a vast sea of dark faces under the red Mahratta (Maratha) turban - and turbans of every hue, green, white, and blue - was visible and a mighty gathering which might be counted by tens of thousands, spread out along the roadside far as the eye could reach, all looking the same way, all eyes fixed on one and one object only - the son of the Empress, the Shahzadah of Hindostan (Shahzada of Hindustan). The Prince exchanged greetings with the Gaekwar and Sir Madhav and the British officials. Such a clang of drums and brass and braying of clarions arose when he was seen! The Prince took the little Maharaja by the hand, sat down and spoke with him for short time. He then passed outside to the steps leading from the entrance of the Station, before which towered an elephant of extraordinary size, on his back was howdah of surpassing splendour, which shone like burnished gold in the morning sun and which was either made of gold or silver gilt. It was covered with a golden canopy. The mahout was attired in a costume befitting such a gorgeous charge. The Prince and the Gaekwar descended the steps. The ladder was placed against the howdah and the Prince carefully helped, stepped up, and the Gaekwar followed, The procession set out to the famous Residency, some three miles distant. The crowds from the Station to the Cantonments beyond which lay the Residency, and the novelty of the procession invested the Prince's entry with an unusual interest. The procession arrived at the Residency in an hour. There were mutual courtesies between the Prince and the Maharaja of Baroda in which the nobles participated at the Residency and the Palace.
20th November: Travelling by rail for the shikar!
We were leaving for the deer preserve of the Gaekwar for a day's sport. Noises outside at 4am, lights in the tents at 5am, shooting-clothes in request, and much tribulation among native servants.... At 5.30am the Residency was lively enough with the shooting party of the Prince and the servants were busy preparing the 'Chota Hazri' or the ' little breakfast', which in England would do duty for a big one. Breakfast was hurried over, Gaekwar's carriages were at the door, trumpets flourished, the guard presented arms, and at 6.15am. the Prince and suite whirled away. Sir R. Meade and other officers accompanied him. The Special Train - two Saloon Carriages and a van - rattled off to a place some 8 miles distant, where the Prince was to begin his shikar. The Railway Line runs through a country of exceeding richness - level as a billiard-table, but so wooded and crop-laden that it was quite impossible to get a glimpse of the horizon except where the tent-like heights of Pounagaurh (Pawagarh), which people fondly believe to be a hill-station, rose above the trees. So it is that Baroda city, with its 90,000 inhabitants, lying close at hand, is invisible. It is not a half of a mile from the railway line, and yet there is no trace of smoke or dust in the clear sky. Social gatherings of monkeys were much agitated by our train. Wayfaring peasants halted to take a look, which seems obligatory all over the world, at the locomotive and carriages. In half an hour the Special halted at a station, the Kassee Shabood-deen (Kazi Shahbuddin) representing the Baroda Durbar was present with a great gathering of elephants, shikarees (shikaris), sowars, camels and oxen to receive the Prince. There were sowars and lancers, and altogether the scene was bright and animated. Some half-dozen of Probyn's old horse were there, some splendid looking Punjaubees (Punjabis). Five or six cheetahs surrounded by their attendants were standing upright on carts drawn by oxen, their eyes hooded, lashing their lank sides with their tails, hissing and purring by turns like monsters. The Prince then mounted an ox-cart with the Duke of Southerland and the rest of the suite followed in similar vehicles. The party then drove on to a vast plain called the Preserve. A cheetah was slipped out from the cart at a herd of black buck some 50 yards distant but it gave up chasing it after about 500 yards. A little later a herd of deer was successfully hunted down by a cheetah. There was other game shooting during the day. The Prince bagged a black buck. At 6pm the Prince drove back to the Residency at Baroda. He was received with usual honours and at 8pm had dinner with the Colonel and officers of 22nd Native Infantry in the Cantonment.
21st November
At 7pm the Prince accompanied by his suite, Sir R. Meade and others drove to the Palace of Mohteebagh (MotiBagh) through an illuminated and highly decorated town. The people of Baroda were all well-mannered. We saw the Baroda Highlanders, the Baroda House, the gold and silver guns and the beautiful carriages of the Maharanee Jumnabaae (Jamunabai), drawn by magnificent oxen, with gilt and silver horns, covered with trappings of gold and silver tissue. The Gaekwar's (Gaikwad's) band played 'God save the Queen', his artillery fired a salute The Gaekwar Sir Madhav Rao, and his Ministers received the Prince at the steps. After the dinner in the pavalion in the garden they returned to the Palace where a musical performance was laid out. followed by coffee and fireworks. At 10.30pm the Prince paid a visit to the Maharanee and expressed his pleasure at the visit, and his gratification at the sporting arrangements. The Maharanee was evidently pleased at the Prince's expressions and was very gracious to the suite. She came out with the Gaekwar, and bade them good-bye at the steps of the Palace. The Prince then drove to the Station where a Special Train was waiting to convey the party to the shooting - ground south of Baroda to Mehmoodabad. Mr Shepherd, Collector of Kaira (Khaira), a famous shot, was charged with the arrangements.
22nd November
The Duke of Sutherland and Mr Grey of the Prince's party chose to go by a separate Special Train to Ahmedabad with Colonel Burton and greatly enjoyed their trip to that ancient city. Just as the sun rose the Prince and his party got out of the Train at Mehmoodabad, prepared for immediate action. There were elephants, camels, ponies, tongas or country carts, waiting for the sportsmen, a set of beaters and a fine stretch of country under such crops as quails affect - jute, jowar, and bagrie (bajra). It was not long before the fusillade began; quail rose and dropped, but it was not always easy to find the birds in the thick green crops. There were three kinds of quail: the grey, the rain, and the button quail. About 10am the bag was found to consist of 111 quail and sundries. The Prince and party then rode to an old Temple, beautifully situated over the river, where they found the breakfast. The Special Train was reached at noon, and at 1.30pm. the Prince arrived at the Residency. After a two-hour rest the party drove to the open ground in Dubka - 18 miles from Baroda, in open carriages for pig sticking. They dined there and slept in two travellers' bungalows.
23rd November
The pig stickers were up early to try their hand at the most popular of Indian wild sports. The pigs did not show up. But at last the Prince had a chance of 'getting his spear', as it is called, and killed a pig.
DEPARTURE FOR BOMBAY
The departure from Baroda back to Bombay was not so fine as the entry but it was nevertheless made an affair of the State, and the Gaekwar and all his people attended the Prince to the Baroda Station. Illuminations, bands, escorts, of course, but the platform at the Station was in darkness, and Sir Madhav Rao was in some apprehension lest advantage might be taken to do mischief to the Prince or to the young Gaekwar in the confusion. Owing to some changes in the arrangements, there was some delay in getting up the carriages and starting the train.
ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY
24th November
The Special Train arrived at the Churchgate Station, Bombay, at 8.30am. Sir Philip Wodehouse and his staff, the Admiral, Captain Glyn, Lord A. Paget, Lord C. Beresford, were awaiting the Prince's arrival and the procession was formed to the dockyard, where steam launches were in readiness to convey the party to the royal ship Serapis. It was settled that after visiting Goa, the Serapis shall call at Beypore and will go on to Colombo in Ceylon.
25th November
The Prince took leave of the Governor amidst a state ceremony. At 6pm as the rays of Colaba Light House were casting their gleam, the illustrious guest of the Viceroy of India started on his cruise on his royal ship Serapis to the western coast of India.
26th - 30th November
The Prince sailed on the Western coast and visited various sights in Goa - the Portuguese Settlement, and sailed to Ceylon.
1st - 8th December
The Royal party was in Ceylon on a state visit.
9th December
The royal ship Serapis left the moorings of Colombo and proceeded to sea to Tuticorin in India, whose shores it reached late in the evening.
TUTICORIN - MADRAS
10th December
The Prince and his retinue sailed back from Ceylon to India to Tuticorin in the Serapis. Through a land journey the Prince and his party reached the temporary pavilion erected to honour His Highness by the local Zemindars. After the courtesies the Prince walked to the Station. It is scarcely possible to exaggerate the quiet charms of the scenery along the new Railway, or the great delight of the people of the combined attractions of the First Train and of the Prince. The whole population thronged the road side. The tall erect figures, square shoulders, broad chests, narrow flanks, and straight limbs of the men struck one almost as much as the graceful carriage and elegant forms of the women. It would be difficult to find a finer race in any part of the world. Their attitudes of wonder and joy were singularly graceful and attractive. Some expressed their feelings by placing their hands clasped as if in a prayer, before their breasts, others held fingers to their lips, as if to suppress their cries but as the Train passed, one and all clapped hands as if they were of a London audience applauding at a theatre.
At 12.20pm., the Train stopped at Kovilpatty (Kovilpatti) thirty-six miles from Tuticorin. There was a small camp and a handsome mess-tent fitted up luxuriously near the Station.The tents belonged to the minor Zemindar of Ettiapuram, who was there with his kinsfolk and tenants, and the usual mighty multitude to greet the Prince. Once more we had the occasion to wonder at the swarming masses, and to admire the fine forms, pleasant manners and looks and picturesque appearance of the people. There was a halt of half an hour for luncheon, and before the Prince resumed his journey he accepted from the Zemindar some articles of trifling value as mementoes of his visit.
11th December
A little before 5pm the Train reached its destination Madura (Madurai). There was a lightness and grace in the decorations of the Station and of the streets. The Engine which had drawn the Royal Train, hitherto anonymous, was christened the 'Alexandra' by the Prince, and the line of the S. I. P. R to Madura declared to be open. The procession of the Prince from the Station to his residence was like many others, but it succeeded in the object of giving pleasure to thousands of spectators. Flags and festoons were profuse; in the main street there was a white triumphal arch of taboot work in perforated paper covered with plates and silvered plaques, behind which there was a screen of red. The arch was surmounted by three domes, with four minarets, two on each flank. There were also eight pandals in the town, in addition to those put up by the Railway Company. The cleansing, scouring, white-washing, painting and deodorising, which were the usual precursors of the Prince's visits were vigorously carried out.
In less than an hour the Prince arrived at his charming quarters in front of Teppa Kollum (or 'floating tank'). The Prince and the royal suite toured the various sights in Madura - the most charming town in Southern India. At the entrance to the Temple of Minakshee (Meenakshi) the Prince was received by the chief priests and crowd of inferior ecclesiastics who presented an address. As he, proceeded by guardians and a band of dancing girls of the temple, passed underneath the Gopura, showers of what looked like gold dust were let fall by unseen hands from the roof. He was covered with a state shawl. The nautch girls scattered flowers before him, fillets of gold and silver tinsel were placed on his brows and arms, richly-scented garlands were brought in baskets and were passed over his shoulders.
FROM MADURA TO TRICHINOPOLY
Having examined the Temple minutely, at 10am the Prince was driven to the Railway Station, where breakfast was laid under a very fine pandal specially built for the occasion. His Excellency Raja Ramchundra Tondiman Bahadoor of Putukottai or Pudducottah offered elephants' tusks, arms and various other presents to the Prince. The inhabitants of Madura presented models of the great Temple and the articles used in the worship of their gods, a gold basket of very fine workmanship and various other articles. When the Prince stepped into the Railway Carriage to continue his journey the natives renewed their curious clapping of the hands and shrill joyous cries. At Dindigal (Dindigul), a town of 1300 inhabitants, the name of which often occurs in the history of Tippoo's (Tipu's) wars, the Prince alighted from his carriage and walked on the platform to admire the decorations. Trichinopoly (Tiruchchirapalli), 82 miles from Madura and 198 miles from Madras was reached at 2.30pm. After lunch the Prince and his party along with the local officials crossed the Cavery (Cauvery) by a fine bridge to visit the famous Temple at Seringham.
On return to Trichinopoly he visited various other tourist places in the town and nearby.
ONWARDS TO MADRAS
12th December
Packing-up began at 1pm and at 4pm the Prince started, under the usual military honours, from the house of Mr Thomas, Collector of Trichinoploy, for the Railway Station where he was received as on the day of arrival. There were loud cheers as the Train moved away, and the ladies were particularly enthusiastic for that little dance had quite engaged their hearts. At Caroor (Karur) at the junction of Amavally and the Cavery, the Prince addressed a few words to the Native officials, who had prepared the platform very prettily. The Line runs along the valley of the Cavery to the Erode Junction (S. I. R. and M. Railway), where the Collector and district officers of Coimbatore, band, colours and a military guard of honour were in attendance. Dinner was served at 8.15pm. The Train journey was resumed soon after 10pm.
Rattle and rumble all night along, with the exception of two stoppages from heated axles and two distressful changes of carriages. It comes quite naturally by this time to one to sleep in a Railway Carriage.
13th December
At 7am the Train, then nearly an hour behind time, pulled up at Perambore (Perambur), where very welcome tea and coffee were served on the platform. Instead of 6.30am, it was 8.10am before the train stopped at Roypooram (Royapuram), outside Madras, not quite at the right place, overshooting the position on the platform of the Duke of Buckingham who with his staff, the civil and military officers, the municipal body and dignitaries of the Presidency, the Rajas of Cochin, Travencore, Arcot, Vizianagram, and others had been long waiting.
After the usual salutations and customary presentations, the state procession set out from Roypooram Station to Government House passing through the streets of the native town and the wide avenue-like throughfare which divide the immense compounds of the European quarter of Madras. The oriental idea of identifying a royalty by holding a golden umbrella over his head was adopted by doing it over the Prince's head. As the golden umbrella came in sight of the Raleigh, the flagship, which had just anchored outside, she saluted with fine effect. Government House was reached at 9am.
13th - 17th December
The royalty had a number of formal programmes and events to attend to in Madras. They had sightseeing in the town and places nearby. On 17th December itself a late-night function beyond 11pm - the native entertainment was arranged at the immense Roypooram Railway Station. The Station had been converted since the Prince's arrival into a vast theatre, nearly 800 feet long and 250 feet wide, decorated with great splendour and richness. An elevated platform covered with a scarlet cloth and tiers of benches was reserved for the guests and the Chiefs and in the centre were gilt chairs for the Prince, Governor and ladies of his family, the authorities, and the Europeans. The hour fixed for the programme was 10pm and it was midnight when the Prince entered. Many thousands of people, Europeans and Asiatics filled the place. When the Prince and the brilliant company were seated, a deputation of native gentlemen advanced to the platform and mounting to the dais, presented an address which was read by the Chairman, in which they expressed the gratification of the native community at the great honour conferred on them by the Prince's presence at their entertainment, and requested his acceptance of the exquisite gold casket, on the top of which was a finely-worked tiger, which was placed on a velvet cushion on a small table in front of his chair. From the platform there was a gangway to a stage, whereon were seated the dancing girls and musicians, the former dressed in in the richest and heaviest robes of the brightest colours. After the dances, music and Nautch girls' presentations when the enjoyment had been sufficient, the Prince drove back to the Government House.
DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS FOR CALCUTTA
8th December
The Prince and his retinue boarded four special boats at sea to carry him amidst formal ceremonies to his royal ship, Serapis, waiting for him to sail away to his next destination Calcutta. At 5.30pm, the Serapis got her anchor and proceeded northwards for the Hooghly escorted by two ships the Raleigh and Osborne.
19th - 22nd December
The Prince and party were at sea.
23rd December
They anchored at the Hooghly. The Viceroy met the Prince and a grand reception was held on the muddy margin of Prinsep's Ghaut (Ghat). The Prince stayed at the Government House at Calcutta. where a number of engagements were held.
24th December
The reception of the great Chiefs by the Prince at Government today, although was accounted 'private', was a very stately ceremonial, conducted with much official pomp and care. These 'private' visits to the Prince were by the State Chiefs like the Maharaja of Puttiala (Patiala), the Maharaja Holkar of Indore, the Maharaja Jodhpoor (Jodhpur), the Maharaja of Jeypoor (Jaipur), the Maharaja of Cashmere (Kashmir), the Maharaja of Gwalior and lastly the Maharaja of Rewah (Rewa).
25th December: Christmas Day
The Prince and the Viceroy attended the divine service in the Cathedral. On return from the Cathedral the Prince drove to the Princep's Ghaut where thousands of natives and hundreds of Europeans, attracted by the Serapis dressed out with flags had assembled.
26th December
After the church the Prince made an excursion by water to Chandernagore - the French settlement, where he was received by the Consul and given a guard of honour and a royal salute was fired, the' God save the Queen' was played. All the Chandernagore was there to cheer the Prince and cry 'Vive le Prince de Galles'. Later the Prince returned to the Princep's Ghaut.
27th December
The Prince drove to the Government House where there was to be another reception of Chiefs. The Emissaries from King of Burmah (Burma) with their Envoy-in -Chief, the Maharaja of Punnah (Panna), the Raja Of Jheend (Jind), the Maharaja of Benares (Varanasi) and the Maharja of Nahun (Nahan) visited him. The sun was very hot and even the Audience Chamber where the punkah (a large heavy cloth native fan) swung to and for all day, the Prince no doubt felt grateful for the additional currents of air wafted from the yak's tails and the fans held by his attendants.
28th - 29th December
These days were spent in return visits by the Prince to the Ruling Chiefs, the Maharajas who had earlier called on him. On 29th he attended the Calcutta races too. A boar-hunting and snipe-shooting excursion to Goalundo by a Special Train was also arranged but the Prince thought as inadvisable owing to a cold he had.
30th December
The Prince invited the Viceroy and a small party to lunch on board the Serapis. A 'change' - an idea of a picnic...
31st December
Ten-pegging-feats of horsemanship by troopers of the 10th Bengal Cavalry at 9am. The Prince was so pleased the he gave a hunting knife to the best man. The day was wound up with a Garden Party and the Grand Ball at the government House.
1st January, 1876
A Chapter of the Order of the Star of India was held in Calcutta in which the various Maharajas and high ranking officials participated. They were honoured by the Prince with different decorations and even the knighthood.
2nd January
The Prince, Viceroy, and party went to church at Fort William and the Arsenal. A steamer conveyed them to the Botanical Gardens. They drove through Howrah and halted at he Bishop's College. Dinner followed by a musical concert at the Government House.
3rd January
Before 8am the Prince accompanied by General Probyn left the Government House on horse back to watch exhibition tent-pegging by the 18th Bengal Cavalry, feats of swordmanship and the like. There was polo match between the British champions and Munipuri (Manipuri) Men, who beat the former. Some astonished spectators thought it was not fair that an Englishman should be beaten at any sport by a native, but polo is the national sport of the Munipuris. There was a regatta at the Hooghly at 2 o'clock.
With the delightful visit to Calcutta over, the Prince was seen off by a large body of nobles in the Government House. The route from the Government House to the Station was lined with troops and people. The Station, beautifully prepared for the departing guest, was like scene in a Christmas pantomime. The cortege was half an hour late in arriving Howrah. The strains of the military band were drowned in cheers and voices wishing 'God Speed!' as the Train moved from the platform. The manner of utilizing the Royal Special Train as a dormitory is now commended by much experience. The only loss the traveller suffers is that of such scenery as may be passed when he is comfortably asleep.
BANKIPOOR
4th January
Bankipoor (Bankipur) Station was reached early in the morning. There was short halt for breakfast and change of dress. The Prince was received by Sir R Temple, the officers military, and civil of the district and a vast concourse of people, salutes and guards of honour. Troops and police lined the road from the Station to the Camp, which was pitched on a plain, not very far from Patna, the ancient Palibothra (Patliputra), capital of a famous State - now a district, Behar (Bihar), given up to opium and indigo, to which Megasthenes was sent as an envoy by Seleucus, when little was known about Great Britain and Ireland by the most learned. Sir R. Temple had made preparations to show what a Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal could do. With less than 100,000 Europeans in India, it was surprising to see what an assembly of ladies, in the most charming bonnets and most correct costumes were waiting to welcome him. The avenue to the Durbar tent was lined by nearly 400 elephants, caparisoned with great richness, howdahs filled with people in gala dresses. The great multitude - Europeans on one side of the way and natives on the other - was loyal and picturesque. After an agreeable halt of three hours the Prince returned to the Railway Station.
ONWARDS TO BENARES (Varanasi)
From Bankipoor to Benares, the country is flat but not quite uninteresting. The weather is cold in night and it was pitiable to see people here with heads muffled up, at the expense of their brown legs,in a thin cotton cloth, a piece of calico was all their covering. But railway observations are not safe guides to acknowledge, pro or con, on any subject. It was nearly dark when the Royal Train reached Rajghaut (Rajghat), the Station of Benares but there was enough of light to give an ideal grandeur to those marvellous ghauts, which have furnished so many subjects for the artist's pencil and the traveller's descriptive powers. And, truth to tell, these terraces descending from the Temples, Palaces, and Choultries to the river's edge, look better through the medium of haze or moonlight than they do in 'garish light of day'. The cortege drove over the bridge of boats from the right bank of the Ganges (Ganga), and so through streets and roadways, the sides of which were crowded with people out to the camp of the Lieutenant Governor.
5th January
There were many engagements with various dignitaries and other high-ups, and local excursions. Finally the Prince embarked in a handsome galley towed by a steamer to the old fort of Ramnagar where the Maharaja of Benares received the Prince, and later in a royal reception showered him with lavish gifts. The Prince and party later floated down the Ganges from Ramnagar to the landing ghauts at Benares, where carriages were waiting. Thence they drove to the dinner to the Camp, a distance of six miles. The road was brilliantly illuminated.
TO FYZABAD (Faizabad) AND LUCKNOW
6th January
The Special Train was ready at the Temporary Station, not far from the Camp at 8am. The Maharaja of Benares, the Raja of Vizianagram, the Chief Justice and the Judges, the Magistrates, the Major-General commanding the division, the ADC and staff were present. When the Prince was leaving, the Maharaja tendered him the last best proof of regard - his own walking-stick, a stout shillelagh, with gold handle and gold studs. Travelling nearly all day to Lucknow. The scenery by the Oudh & Rohilcund Railway does not offer much variety. The country is a dead level, no great rivers, and not many streams, to bridge. At Fyzabad (Faizabad), the ancient Awadiah (Oudh), one of the most holy cities in India, which is much favoured by monkeys, where the Train arrived at 1pm Sir George Couper,the Chief Commisioner, staff, the Magistrates and officials, and Major-General Maude, commanding the district of Oudh and his staff received the Prince,who made a short halt at the Station and then continued his journey to Lucknow. Major-General Chamberlain and the Lucknow officials received the Prince at the Charbagh Station at 4.40pm.
The cortege set out for the Royal headquarters with escorts of various army regiments and a strong force of Oudh Police lining the roads, the sideways of which were filled with crowds of natives. It was just possible to recognise Banks' Bungalow - now the residence of Chief Commisioner - once Outram's headquarters.
7th January
The Prince drove to the Dilkoosha (Dilkusha). He was much interested in the building which was scene of interesting events at the two reliefs of Lucknow, and asked particularly about Peel's Battery, and the room in which the gallant sailor lay wounded. Thence the Prince drove to the Martiniere. He descended to the vault where lie the remains of Claude Martin, a native of Lyons, 'a simple soldier who died a general' and who bequeathed an enormous fortune to charitable purposes of the land where he gained it. Then he mounted to the roof, commanding view of the country through which Clyde advanced to the relief of Residency. It is much changed owing to the destruction of houses and villages. On his way back, his Royal Highness drove round by the walls of Secundrabagh, and past the Kaiserbagh through the Wingfield Park.
In the afternoon the he laid the foundation-stone of the memorial to the natives who fell in the defence of the Residency.
8th January
An excursion was arranged for 'pig sticking' in rough country in Onao (Unnao).The Prince rode hard but the English horse has little chance with the boar as the latter turns like a hare. There were many falls, some had two. The 'pigs' showed great courage, fighting fiercely, charging savagely and inflicting considerable injuries on the horses. In one run a boar hard pressed turned sharply and round and ran under the horse ridden by Lord Carrington which came down heavily. Lord Carington's left collar-bone was broken. After the lunch 'in the wild wood', the sport continued and many pigs were killed before the sport was over.
9th January
The Prince attended the divine service in a pretty church near Banks' bungalow.
The Prince did not visit the Native city or Chandni Cowk or main street, as it is too narrow to be traversed by the carriages, elephants are too high. Kite-making and kite-flying flourish as of yore. The people were inclined to be civil but there is not very cheerful air about them, and Lucknow has fallen from its high state. In the days of Native Court Lucknow was like Paris under the Empire. Although I doubt Lucknow is quite friendly, whatever Oudh may be.
FROM LUCKNOW TO DELHI
10th January
The Prince drove from the Chief Commisioner's House after lunch, and was received at the Railway Station with the usual honours. At 2.15pm the Special Train left for Cawnpoor (Kanpur) and at 3.35pm stopped near Onao to take up Lord Carington still in slings. Shortly before 4pm we came to the hammocky grass-lands which border the Ganges. As the Train swept over the stupendous bridge which spans the great flood, the spire of the church of Cawnpoor and a few bungalows and trees came in sight. The Secretaries to the Government of North -West Provinces, two of the Governor's personal staff, the Major-General commanding the district, the Inspector-general of Police, the Judge, the Magistrate, Mr Prinsep, ladies and gentlemen admitted by ticket, were on the platform of the Station, which is some distance from the city.
It was nearly 10pm before the Special Train, with pilot engine in front, started for Delhi. The carriages were very comfortable, and if his Royal Highness has such accommodation as is due to his rank, the suite do not travel badly. With blankets and pillows, 'the hardy traveller' can manage to make a night of it, and wake up in the morning refreshed by sleep.
THE ROYAL ENTRY INTO IMPERIAL DELHI
11th January
'Delhi! We shall be there in ten minutes!' Delhi gained in one night's unconscious travel from Cawnpoor. There arose before us the fair frontage of Selimgurh (Salimgarh), the minarets of Jumna Masjid (Jama Masjid). In few minutes more, the Train was crossing the Jumna (Yamuna) by the noble bridge, worthy of comparison with that over the Ganges at Cawnpoor.
The arrival at Delhi and entry of the Prince were attended with a pomp and circumstances well fitting the place and the occasion. Inside the Station, Lord Napier, the Staff of the Army, a glittering crowd of authorities, and officers of the British and Native regiments of all arms fired the salute. The Royal camp at Delhi was of grand proportions and beautifully ordered. After a time the Municipality of Delhi, all Native gentlemen were introduced to present their address. A hearty welcome was offered to His Royal Highness.
12th January
There was Levee, grand Review of army regiments, British and Native, and the Prince, wearing the uniform of a Field Marshal, rode a couple of miles away to a Cavalry regiment.
13th January
A small camp was pitched at the Kootab (Qutab). There was a military band and lunch was laid in a large marquee. Many ladies were invited from Delhi. The Prince mounted to the summit of the Kootab and viewed the wide spread of ruins, tombs, mosques, and cities. He inspected the famous Iron Pillar, in which the Natives have robust faith, in spite of practical demonstrations and emptiness of it. The Prince on his way back to the Camp, stopped at the Houmayoun's (Humayun's) tomb, where the Delhi princes surrendered to Hodson and met their death.
14th - 16th January
There were military manoeuvres and a Cavalry Field Day which the Prince observed and showed keen interest in, himself riding a charger.
ONWARDS TO LAHORE
17th January
The Special Train left Delhi Station for Lahore before midnight. The Prince was escorted by a great body of officers, headed by Lord Napier, with whom he had dined. The roadway was illuminated, and a pretty fashion in vogue at the military festivals here, of having soldiers, each with a torch in hand, to mark the lines of the camp, was followed all the way. The great personnel-suite, officers attached, servants and attendant natives-was safely stowed away, and the Train moved off from the metropolis of the old Moghul out into night, amid tremendous cheers, on its way to the capital of short-lived dynasty of the Sikh. The arrangements of Major-General Browne were complete. It was cold enough for all our rugs and wrappers, but when it comes, 'Sleep is lord of all,' and the Clatter of the Iron Horse over a many famous battle-field did not disturb the weary travellers.
LAHORE
18th January
When Lahore looked at its best in the bright light of early morning as the Special Train slid up to the red cloth where the Governor of the Punjaub (Punjab) and the Military and Civil staff of the Province, with a large assemblage of Europeans were waiting on the platform of the Railway Station which, ornamented with turrets and battlements looks as though it aimed at being mistaken for a fortification. There was so much to admire that the way to Government House seemed very short -but it is four miles.
The Prince had introductions to the Lieutenant Governor and his Family and staff. The Raja of Nabha, the Raja of Mundee (Mandi), the Raja of Faridkot, the Nawab of Loharu, the Nawab of Pataudi and several other Chiefs and nobles paid their respects to the royal guest.
19th January
The return visits to the Chiefs and the opening of the Soldiers' Industrial Exhibition at Meean Meer (Mian Mir) occupied the forenoon. By the order of Sir G. Pollock, an immense quantity of Turcoman (Turkman), Affghan (Afghan), and Persian carpets, furs, pushmeena (pashmina), puttoo and various articles was brought down for inspection to headquarters. The Prince bought many articles, others following his example, till none were left, and the merchants went away rejoicing There were also Hillmen, with the finest falcons, hunting eagles, short-winged hawks, shaggy Thibetan (Tibetan) mastiffs, rugged deer hounds, to tempt purchasers. In the evening, though very cold, there was a fete in the Shalimar Gardens with exquisite illuminations.
DEPARTURE FOR JUMMOO (Jammu)
20th January
. There is a Narrow-Gauge line from Lahore to Wazirabad (twenty-six miles), of which, the most that can be said is that it is better than no rail at all. The Royal Special Train managed to reach Wazirabad in little more than two hours. Thence there is an excellent road along which the party rode at a rapid pace. In the Cantonment the Prince had lunch with the9th Lancers and then continued his journey to Jummoo (Jammu). It was 4pm when the Prince whose carriage was escorted by 9th Lancers, entered the State of Maharaja of Cashmere (Kashmir). The Maharaja himself appeared with his Sirdars (Sardars) and a magnificent 'sowaree' and welcomed the Prince to his dominions. The cortege went at a rapid pace, but it was dusk, before we reached the river Towee (Tawi). On the bank there was vast number of elephants. the broad river, covered with boats pulled by colourfully liveried rowers and dotted with men floating on skins was below us. The old hill fort on the opposite side of the gorge was thundering out a salute. When the Prince mounted on an elephant with the Maharaja, led the procession across the river, ringing of bells, joyous cries, firing of guns, and the clang of music made an indescribable tumult. It was dark by the time the Prince arrived at the Palace.
21st January
There were games and sports involving cheetahs, deer and dogs.
22nd January
Soon after 8am., the Prince left Jummoo. The journey from Wazirabad was continued by a Special Train at 3.40.pm. It arrived Lahore Station at 6pm. when it was quite dark. Staying at the Government House these the day was spent in some native entertainment and other civil ceremonies.
23rd January
Divine service at the Government House. The Prince later visited the Museum and other places of interest.
FROM LAHORE TO UMRITSAR ON WAY TO AGRA
24th January
The Prince left for Agra at noo (Jaipur)n. At Lahore Station Sir Charles Reid showed his plan of loading an ordinary train with artillery. In twenty minutes Captain Hawkins' Battery (86 men and 94 horses) were placed in 17 ordinary waggons and 6 trucks (open wagons) attached to the Prince's Train. When the Prince reached Umritsar (Amritsar), the horses and guns were run out, and opened as if for action. to the great astonishment of the Native crowd, in five minutes after the arrival of theTrain. The Prince alighted under a salute from Govindghurh (Govindgarh) and drove through to the building prepared for his reception. The journey to Agra was continued at dusk.
ENROUTE AT RAJPOORAH
It was close to midnight when the Train pulled up at the Station of Rajpoorah (Rajpura) where the Maharaja Of Puttiala (Patiala) was waiting to receive the guest. It may be assumed that some, at least, of the passengers in the Royal Train were rather sorry when they were awakened by a braying of bands, the firing of cannon, and the glare of the great illumination. The Maharaja was surrounded by his ministers and officers, guards of honour, and the Raja's troops were drawn up at the Railway Station. It is a very small place, an ordinary road side Station, but it was made very fine with garlands, lamps, transparencies, and scarlet cloth. A grand palace of canvas, hung with silk shawls and carpets, with mirrors, chandeliers and engravings and pictures, room within room had been prepared. The banquet was brought from Calcutta. After the health of the Queen, the Maharaja proposed the health of the Prince of Wales amid discharges of cannon and pyrotechnic outbursts the Prince bade good-bye to the delighted Maharaja, and continued his journey.
ARRIVAL AT AGRA
25th January
Around 4pm. the red walls and towers of the Fort of Agra came in sight. The Train thundered over the grand bridge which spans the broad Jumna (Yamuna).Presently up rose the clamour, to which all are so accustomed, that, as the miller wakes up when the clack of the wheel stops so the gentlemen, who have been travelling so long to such accompaniments of music, voices, and cannon consider something has gone wrong if they do not hear the familiar sounds at their arrival and departure, conscious though they may be that not one note of sound or voice, nor one grain of gun powder is expanded in their honour. The Commisioner, the Major-General commanding the division, the Brigadier, the Magistrate, the Station officers, etc., were on the platform. The Prince and his suite rode on elephants in an oriental pomp to the Camp.
26th January
Agra poured out in thousands in the 'maidan' outside the Camp. Several Chiefs, Rajas and Mahrajas came to pay their tributes to the Prince. The Maharaja of Bikaner, Maharaja of Bhurtpoor (Bharatpur), Maharaja of Ulwar (Alwar), Maharaja of Oorcha (Orcha), Rana of Dholpoor (Dholpur), Rao Maharaja of Duttia (Datia), Nawab of Tonk and the Raja of Tehri were prominent among the galaxy of state rulers who paid their regards to the Prince. The Maharaja of Kishengurh (Kishangarh) was also there, proud of the novel influence, as now the Rajpootana (Rajputana)Railway runs through his capital.
In the afternoon the troops of the Nawabs and Rajas passed before the Prince - a strange 'melange' of elephants, camels, horses, bullocks, men such as Alexander might have led into captivity, knights in armour, artillery drawn by oxen, for an hour and half. In the evening the Prince, after a banquet at headquarters, went to a party given by the Lieutenant Governor in the Fort, and after a dance and supper returned to the Camp.
THE TAJ
27th January
The Prince, after dinner, drove through to see the Taj illuminated. At the Taj, 7000 spectators came to look at the Prince of Wales looking at the Taj It was near midnight before the Prince was minded to quit the place.
28th January
The Prince had an excursion to the 'sanctuary' of jungle of the Maharaja of Bhurtpoor for good sport. The 'bag' consisted of eighty head (ducks).
In the evening, back at Agra, there was a grand ball in the Fort. One may question the fitness of the Dewan Khass (Dewan e Khas ) and Dewan I-Aum (Dewan e Aam) for balls and suppers but the scene was beautiful. But these balls are as agreeable to the Prince, who is able to gratify so many Europeans as it is agreeable to them to have an opportunity of seeing the Prince.
29th January
At an excursion to Futtehpoor (Fatehpur) Sikri. The Prince was shown around by the eleventh descendant of the very fakir whose tomb constitutes the principal attraction to the natives.
30th January
Morning at 11 o'clock the Prince attended a divine service. The afternoon was devoted to what is perhaps the grandest, as Taj is certainly is the most beautiful, tomb in the world-Sikundra (Sikandra), six miles from the Camp.
31st January
The visit to Maharaja of Gwalior was fixed for today, and as there is no railway it was necessary to prepare for along journey by road.
1st February
The day was spent by the royal guest in social activities at the Maharaja's palace, reviewing Scindia' army and sight-seeing to the famous fortress and other places.
2nd February
At 10.30am all was set for the Prince for the return to Agra. They had lunch en route at Dholepoor (Dholpur).
3rd February
It was a day of repose for all but for a small party of sportsmen who went twenty five miles from Agra to ground where boars were numerous for hunting.
DEPARTURE FROM AGRA TO BHURTPOOR (Bharatpur)
4th February
A Special Train of the Rajpootana State Railway was ordered for 8.45am. for Jeypoor (Jaipur). At Bhurtpoor (Bharatpur), where the Maharaja and his Court had been waiting for an hour, there was a great deal to see and but little time to see it. The guns of the famous old fortress thundered out salutes. The Prince and the party were entertained at lunch at the palace. The Maharaja, after lunch, conducted the Prince to the Bhurtpoor Station.
BHURTPOOR TO JEYPOOR (Jaipur)
From Bhurtpoor the railroad traverses a plain, apparently level as a bowling green, but in the vicinity of rivers the rains have cut deep and numerous ravines. At each half mile of road there were pickets of horsemen. At every village were gathered Rajpoots armed with swords and shields. Close to the city of Jeypoor (Jaipur) conical hills form continuous chains, on which are battlemented walls, fortresses of feudal Chiefs. From unexpected places came puffs of smoke and reports of a cannon. The sun was getting low when when the Train stopped at the Station. As the Prince stepped out of Carriage, the Maharaja of Jeypoor advanced to welcome him at the head of his Court, and there was the usual attendance of the official and unofficial Europeans on the platform. A procession was formed from the Station to the palace through a great multitude -a double line, natives and Europeans, two elephants abreast. We passed through a gateway, and Jeypoor lay before us, a surprise and wonder for ever.
5th February
The Royal party started in high spirits, some to hunt pig, others to shoot deer; the Prince to the rocky ravine where the tiger was lurking. He was placed in the upper story of a shooting-box which had a clear view all round. Nearly two hours passed before the beaters came on the lair. The tiger was seen creeping, cat-like, towards the box. When it came within 30 yards the Prince fired. The tiger started off down the ravine at a trot. Again the Prince fired, the tiger rolled over, but recovered and staggered into a hallow amid thick bush. The Prince who wished to follow the trail on foot was dissuaded. He mounted an elephant and descended. The beaters threw stones in the ravine, the tiger emerged and walked slowly up the bank. The Prince fired twice, still the beast went on, badly hit though it was, and stumbling, rolled out of sight over a boulder. A beater said, 'it lies there'. The party closed around , and there lay a full grown female 8 and ½ feet long. The Maharaja congratulated the Prince on his success. And requested his acceptance of a very large-bored tiger-rifle. There were grand illuminations all over the city on account of the Prince's visit.
6th February
Divine service at the Residency at 10.30am. There was an excursion to Amber. No one should set foot on Indian soil without visiting Amber if he can. Lunch was spread at one of the terraces of the palace and the cortege attracted a very great multitude of people as picturesque as the country they live in.
DEPARTURE FROM JEYPOOR FOR AGRA
7th February
Maharaja and others paid respects to the Prince. Servants busy packing up. When the Train was ready the Prince walked with the Maharaja to the Station which was a few hundreds yards distant. The run to Agra was rapid and smooth. At 6 o'clock the party arrived at the Camp. Whilst the Prince decided to set out for his sporting excursion to the Terai in the Kumaoun (Kumaon) hills. Captain Glyn and Commander Durrant proceeded to Calcutta to take the royal ship Serapis and its escort ship Osborne round to Bombay. The Prince bade his kind hosts farewell, and at midnight the Special Train started from Agra for Moradabad, the farthest point towards the Terai to which the rail extends.
8th February
Dreaming possibly of the Taj or peasant camp and the hospitalities of Sir John and Lady Strachey at Agra, stretched at length on the comfortable cushions of our railway carriages,and snugly wrapped in 'resais' (razais), we were borne through the night taking no note of time, away to Rohilcund (Rohilkhund). Effectively we were at Moradabad. Brigadier Payne and the military and civilian staff of the district, a guard of honour, band and colours of the 18th Royal Irish were waiting on the platform. A shooting camp was arranged at Bahrinie (Baheri) twenty six miles away.
9th - 18th February
The Prince and his officers were busy in the Terai area in hunting expeditions in Khatima and Banbasa and other areas at the base of Kumaon hills with the Prince bagging tigers and sloth bears among other small game. The Prince visited Nainital too.
Hospitality of Sir Henry Ramsay often called the 'King of Kumaon' was fabulous with the Prince, Camp itself containing 2500 persons. Without counting Sir Ramsay's separate camp establishment, there are 119 elephants, 550 camels, 100 horses, 60 carts drawn by oxen, many goats and milch-cows, sheep, and perambulating material for food. There are nearly 600 coolies, 60 tent-pitchers, 20 men to supply water, 20 men to clean, 20 messengers, 75 non-commisioned officers, and men of 3rd Goorkhas (Gurkhas) and their band, 20 troopers of the 11th Bengal Cavalry, 16 of the 28th Native Infantry, a detachment of the native police (the Prince's person is guarded by natives exclusively) and there are odds and ends which add to the total, without counting mahouts and their families and, and camel-men, assemblage to around the Prince and his thirty or forty Europeans. Certainly I should feel rather proud of myself if I were a wild beast and knew all this.
19th February
The Prince had the last day with Sir Ramsay. The tents were sent back. The Prince came in sight at 1 o'clock, a guard of honour of the 3rd Goorkhas was drawn up.
20th February - 5th March
The Prince and his suite travelled to Nepal from Terai and remained there, and returned to Terai on 5th March late afternoon.
6th March
The end of our pleasant holiday in Terai today! Eager to come and eager to go! The mahouts appeared to take leave. Even the hathies (elephants) were brought up to make salaams. the artful attendants, the venerable bheestie (water carrier), the kelassi (khalasi) etc duly paraded before my tent, but they were readily disposed of. Chitties (letters of appreciation) and baksheesh (tips) and away they went contently.
The Nepalese Prime Minster and his officers came to the Camp to bid the Prince farewell. The leave-taking between the Prince and them was of a very kindly and friendly nature.
ON TO BAREILLY
At 11.30am the Prince's equipages set out for Bareilley. A new road had been made for many miles through the forest, and the cortege bowled along Rohilcund (Rohilkhand). At Phillibeet (Pilibhit), the Rampoor (Rampur) Chief had made a small but pretty encampment. Of Bareilley we saw nothing but illuminated roads. The Prince repaired from Nawab's house to the mess of the 18th Royal Irish where the evening passed so pleasantly that I am not quite sure if the Special Train to Allahabad was not a little later in starting than the programme had it. From Bareilley, which the Prince left at 10.20pm, there was a continuous run, by a Special Train, of night 12 hours by Shahjehanpore (Shahjahanpur) to Lucknow, Cawnpoor, and Allahabad, which was reached at about 10am.
ALLAHABAD
7th March
There was a grand reception at the Station and State procession to the Lieutenant-Governor's house. An address was presented by the Municipality, to which the Prince made an appropriate reply.
A Chapter of Investiture of the Order of the Star of India was held at 1pm. In the afternoon the Prince drove to the Fort and Canning Town. There was a large dinner at Lieutenant-Governor's residence. The Prince and Lord Northbrook had a long conversation before his Royal Highness went to the Station, to which he was attended in the same state as when he entered in the morning. The Train went off before midnight amid loud cheers from a great crowd on platform.
8th March
Travelling all night on the East India Railway to Jubalpoor (Jabalpur), and all day on the Great Indian Peninsula Railway to Candwah (Khandwa) on the way Indore. At Jubalpoor there was one of the prettiest receptions possible and a halt of breakfast at Mr Grant's mansion. Afterwards the Prince visited criminals, 'thugs' - miserables - undergoing prison sentences for as long a term as 35 years for murders. When the Prince was about to leave them someone told him they wanted the Prince to enhance their daily prison allowance to Rs 4 per month instead of existing Rs 3 to give them a comfortable living in prison! The Prince smiled and said that 'If it could be done the increase might be granted.' They appeared as delighted when the royal words were communicated to them as if they had just secured a fresh victim, and had found a purse of gold on its body.
At Sohajpoor (Sohagpur), 122 ½ miles from Jubalpoor lunch was laid at the Station, which was charmingly prepared for the Prince. Then the journey continued for five long hours. At Candwah (Khandwa), where the Prince dined there was a long halt. Here the Holkar State Railway, a Narrow-Gauge commences, and we had to shift to much less comfortable carriages. At 1 o'clock in the morning the Special Train left the Station, and the party travelled slowly all night.
9th March
It was 6.30am when the Train drew up at Chowral (Choral) on the Nerbudda (Narbada),the present terminus of Holkar's line to Indore. Refreshments, tents and a large pavilion were prepared for the party. General Sir Daly and many high military and civil officials were waiting. Open carriages and relays of military horses at intervals of 6 miles all the way to Indore - an exceedingly interesting ascent of he Vindhya range. As the Prince approached, Holkar came forth with his chiefs to welcome him. He wore a Mahratta (Maratha) turban, the riband and badge of the Star of India; a fine collar of diamonds was his only ornaments, save a brilliant ring - a single stone of great size. At 5pm, the Prince visited the various Rajas of the princely States. At Lallbagh (Lalbagh) his Royal Highness was received in Durbar. Holkar led him to a room where his presents were laid out, first taking a brilliant ring and putting it on the Prince's finger. A State dinner followed at a pavilion, erected for the occasion, at the Residency to which eighty European ladies and gentlemen were invited.
10th March
The Prince received the Chiefs of smaller note and officers of Bhopal and Malwah (Malwa) corps. A group of bheels performed graceful dances.
The departure of the Prince from Indore, his last excursion in India, was made in the same form as his entry. Holkar took his leave at the pandal, after which the Prince had a pleasant drive over the plateau and down the Alpine road which descends the ghaut to the Special Train at Chowral. We shall be in Bombay tomorrow morning! Just think of that! And then in two days more, we are off towards home.
RETURN TO BOMBAY FROM INDORE
The Train started from Chowral at 6pm and Candwah (Khandwa), 57 miles at 8.40pm. Here there was a banquet, that is, there was a remarkable bill of fare, but the dishes set forth thereon were by no means to be found on the table! Lord Suffield, in honour of the day, proposed to the health of Princess of Wales for which the Prince returned thanks and in doing so, paid attribute, in most generous terms to the officers in his personal suite and to, those who joined him in India, and attributed much of its success which had attended his trip to their efforts.
11th March
It was 11am, and the sun was unpleasantly powerful as the ever-vigilant artillerymen announced the Prince's arrival outside the Churchgate Station, Bombay. The Station was carpeted, and the pillars were wreathed with flowers. On the platform there were the Governor, the Commander-in-Chief, and all the authorities for there was to be a procession to the Dockyard. The Staff proceeded the carriages, and his Royal Highness sat in the last carriage of all with the Governor. The platform and stands inside the dockyard which had been prepared for the prince's reception on his arrival from the Railway Station were occupied. A group of naval officers from the fleet was posted at the entrance, a guard of honour of the G. I. P. volunteers, and guard and band.
The Prince stepped on board the steam launch. Thirteen ships of war saluted. The Serapis freshly decked with white paint and re-gilt, was nobler to look at than any bucentaur.
12th March
The Prince attended divine service on the quarter-deck. The Admiral Macdonald gave a farewell dinner to the Prince on board the Undaunted, to which the senior officers of the fleet were invited.
13th March
Just this day 17 weeks ago the Serapis cast anchor in Bombay. The Prince has travelled 7600 miles by land and 2300 miles by sea, knows more Chiefs than all the Viceroys and governors together and has seen more of the country in the time than any living man. Sir Philip Wodehouse came at 1pm. Next was Rear-Admiral Macdonald and other Europeans. Then came the deputation - Parsee (Parsi) and Hindoo (Hindu) merchants; Mr Peddar (Poddar) and company with farewell address of Bombay Corporation. Sir Jamsetjee (Jamshedji) and his family had a farewell audience. Prince appreciated greatly the services of various British officers for his successful tour of India notably that of Sir Samuel Browne who arranged trains and carriages from the beginning to end.
FAREWELL TO INDIA
Admiral Macdonald was the last to leave; with full eyes he bid the Prince 'Good-bye'. It was 3.45pm. Then came the strokes of the bell, which set the engines in motion. The Prince stood on the bridge as the Serapis slowly forged ahead. The farewell salute was fired. As soon as the smoke cleared away, the signal 'God speed you!' was seen flying from the ship Undaunted. The Serapis made a reply 'Thanks! We look forward to the next meeting!' Though the drifting vapour of gunpowder, the shore growing dimmer and dimmer, as it reflected the fading rays of the declining sun was watched, until the outlines of the hills faded into a cloudland and darkness fell on the face of the waters. The Colaba Light long threw its sheen which marked our wake, but was lost at last amid the stars. Farewell to India!
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